A BIT OF SANCTUARY WOULD BE NICE

"And here we have a donkey in an iron lung." I registered my displeasure that our guide flouted basic language dogma in opting to start a sentence with 'and'. That said, the donkey was pretty impressive, lying there passively, its large fluttery donkey eyes looking up at the crowds looking down on it, the rhythmic breath of the iron lung working in that way that an iron lung does to cure those nasty things that it cures - the bubbles in the blood thing divers get by resurfacing too quickly that sounds a tiny bit like rickets. That's probably what the donkey had. I didn't dare ask the guide exactly why the donkey was in the iron lung; there comes a point in every day when I just can't handle any more floutation without going dangerously quiet, I wasn't going to risk her flouting some other way.

"And here we have another donkey in an iron lung." I coughed. This wasn't the time to go quiet, this was a recurrence of the first incident; if quantified this floutation would only count for half the original points, just a momentary lapse to be reminded with a cough and apologised with a nod. Any further transgression would count for one and a half times the points, and would push me over the edge, not that they'd fucking notice, fucking insensitive fuckers who don't fucking know what I'm fucking thinking when I don't tell them. "The difference between this donkey and the last donkey," continued the guide, whom we'd earlier been invited to call Chloe even though it wasn't her real name, "is that this donkey has been in the iron lung for just two days, whereas the previous donkey has been there for three. If you'll observe and compare the lustre in the two sets of eyes you'll understand the good work we're doing here." It was true: the eyes of this donkey were less lustrous than the first. This donkey was visibly uncomfortable to be in an iron lung, yet the first donkey had that extra day's experience and was just lying back, getting the cure, and it could be seen in his or her eyes - I'm not Superman, I can't see through iron, and even if I were I'd respect the privacy of the donkey, and base my opinion of himer on hiser personality and not subscribe to cheap gender stereotypes.

"Hi Tom," she said to Tom. "This is Tom," she said to us, introducing us to Tom. "He feeds the donkeys. Who are you feeding now Tom?" she said to us and Tom, telling us that Tom feeds the donkeys and then asking Tom which donkey he was feeding. Tom explained to us using a series of devolved wall scrapings that he was feeding Lucky, a donkey who had had the most unlucky of lives, and was only now receiving the treatment that every donkey deserves. Lucky had been in an iron lung for four days, and was snarfing down fish like there was no tomorrow. Tom etched that he had put in an extra order of fish just to keep Lucky from breaking free of her necessary prison and running amok in search of the perfect plaice. He then invited any of us who wanted to feed Lucky to come up and grab a fish. We were informed that there were no sinks in which to wash our hands, but that we could wipe our hands on our clothes, or do what Tom did and lick our fingers clean. Many of the more sedate members of our party elected to pass, but I fancied an opportunity to check the lustre in the eyes of this donkey, and see if the difference between days two and three would continue between days three and four.

"And now we come to the piece de resistance." I went dangerously quiet, no cough, no glare; I thought we'd cultivated a respectful rapport, but it seems I was wrong. That she'd pronounced piece de resistance as wholly English didn't register until later, much later. I switched off and tried to imagine some music in my head to listen to. I recall a donkey was there, presumably one which had been in an iron lung for five days; there were some mechanical devices, perhaps tracking devices, perhaps heartrate monitors, I can only speculate. I do know that the donkey was released into the wild, but I wasn't there enough to take in any details about aftercare. My notes suggest that we were invited to make a donation in Canadian dollars, and that if we wanted to pay using the only money any of us had in our wallets a small fee would be levied, but at the time I didn't take any of that in, nor do I remember making notes. These notes go on to explain that paying in Canadian dollars even though that isn't the currency of the land was for tax reasons so that more money would go to help the donkeys and pay the wages of the backroom staff that we didn't see. If the backroom staff were anything like the frontroom staff - with the exception of Tom - my donation was going to be in English pounds, and yah boo sucks to them.